rogeru
Junior Member
Posts: 88
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Post by rogeru on Aug 23, 2012 19:32:12 GMT -8
Just wondering if there are any "easy" ways or tricks to mounting a hardbody to the chassis. I usually line things up by eye when figuring where to put the holes through the body so they line up with the pin tubing on the chassis. Sometimes this works ok other times not so good. Any other ideas?
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Post by Keith Tanaka on Aug 23, 2012 20:22:41 GMT -8
Just wondering if there are any "easy" ways or tricks to mounting a hardbody to the chassis. I usually line things up by eye when figuring where to put the holes through the body so they line up with the pin tubing on the chassis. Sometimes this works ok other times not so good. Any other ideas? Good question Roger. I don't have an easy way to do it either. I just mark the location of each pin tubing location on the bottom of the chassis. I then temporarily tape the body to the chassis and mark the location of each pin tube on the bottom of the body (sides). As far as how far from the bottom each pin tube location is, I use dial calipers to measure this distance for each pin tube location and transfer (mark) this distance to the outer side of the body. So far this method has worked ok, but I'm sure someone else has an easier and better way. Maybe Bruce Frye or Gonzo or ? can provide their method of mounting a body. Keith
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Post by craigg on Aug 24, 2012 4:37:17 GMT -8
I do the same as Keith, just do it before paint so you can fill any "extra" holes the may be needed. It is hit or miss for me also. I also make the pin holes slightly over size to relieve stress.
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Post by brucewayne on Aug 24, 2012 7:27:17 GMT -8
I would say all our methods are similar, but there are a few things you can do to increase the accuracy and alignment of the holes for the pin tubes.
I start by taping the bare finished chassis down to a tech block so it sits flat and is centered front to back and side to side. So you don't have to write or mark your tech block, put a little square of masking tape on the block at and under each pin tube location. Next, using a square or eyeball, mark the locations of the pin tubes onto the tape, keeping them in line and parallel to the pin tubes. Now you place the body over the chassis, keeping the axles centered in the openings, and the body centered over the frame. When you're happy with the placement, tape it down to the block with some long strips of tape, but keep the tape away from the area of the pin tubes. Now you can transfer those lines straight up vertically and onto the body using your eye, or with a small square. Exacto sells a nice 3"x4" one that is excellent for this. You can also use a plastic notebook protractor or triangle, anything with an accurate 90. I use a sharpened pencil to mark the body, as markers have a wider line and can stain bare plastic as well. Now that you have the all the pin tube locations marked with a vertical line, next is to find their height. Remove the body but leave the chassis taped down and measure the height of each pin tube. I use a pair of drafting dividers, but you can also use the scale on your square or ruler too. Write down each measurement on the tape at all four locations so you don't get them mixed up as they may differ.
Place the body flat on another tech block or surface and carefully mark the height of each pin tube crossing the "Tee" with a horizontal line. Now you have the axis and center point of each pin tube marked.
I like to start with a .025" drill to make the initial holes, and use the longer, thinner straight pins from Mom's sewing box to rough it all together. This way if the hole if off a little, some adjustment can be made side to side or up and down by biasing the bigger drill one way or another.
If the hole is way off, just fill it with piece of stretched sprue and try again.
Hope this helps Roger, but please feel free to ask if you have any other questions or any details I missed.
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rogeru
Junior Member
Posts: 88
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Post by rogeru on Aug 24, 2012 17:20:24 GMT -8
Thanks guys for your suggestions, I'm sure they'll work more accurately then my attempts. I've had to fill several "misplaced" holes in the past, maybe that won't happen so much now.
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