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Post by gonzalez on Sept 28, 2014 23:51:36 GMT -8
ive shown some racers how i mounted my mazda body to the chassis.this body has a lip on it which allowed me to use this method.so i wondered if i could replicate this method on a body with no lip by adding a piece of 'L' shaped styrene plastic. i went and bought some 3/32 plastic and glued it to the side of my t bird with shoo goo glue and it worked fantastic! no strait pins or bent wire to hold the body on.just 3/32 u channel on chassis and the L bracket on the body .any com/ques.let me hear from you. if your interested check it out at our next race
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Post by Keith Tanaka on Sept 29, 2014 10:20:11 GMT -8
Gonzo's body mounting technique works very well. It's simple to implement and eliminates the need for mounting pins or bent wire. Since there's no straight pins for body mounting, there's no holes in the body needed for the pins and it also eliminates the problem of aligning the mounting holes with the brass tubing to hold the straight pins. It's a win-win as far as mounting the body is concerned. Here's a photo of Gonzo's Mazda chassis showing the "C" channel on the side pans. The "L" shaped styrene piece (which is glued to the inside of the body side panel) fits into the C channel. The body mounts by flexing the bottom portion of the body to allow the "L" portion to fit into the "C" channel. The body actually rests in the C channel and provides a loose fit (or tight fit if you prefer) which is similar to how a "rattle" body mounting works. You can control the amount of fore/aft and side to side movement of the body by the fit/location of the "L" portion of the body mount. In other words, it provides a "tension less" body mounting which helps improve the handling of the car. Gonzo, thanks for sharing this neat body mounting technique. Keith
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Post by gonzalez on Oct 5, 2014 22:34:30 GMT -8
thanks keith for posting the mazda chassis.fellow racers should have a better idea of what i meant. add note: to control back and forth movement box the channel in the back with an L brass and notch the body accordingly.
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Post by gonzalez on Apr 29, 2015 23:55:59 GMT -8
looking thru our blog thought id review my article about alternative body mounting method.Well after trying this method out in the real world ive had to improve on this system.im determined to make this work.after actual racing with this system it turns out that 3/32 is to shallow a depth so i went with a deeper channel this worked better but still needed some tweeking.with my latest upgrade to this system i went with 1/4 in "L"angle and i sloted the channel so the L angle fits all the way in the slot and now to control back and forth movement on the body just adjust the size of the slot you make on the channel.actually with this method it dosent have to be a channel you can use square tubing because your going to slot it anyway youll just have to cut thru two walls of brass instead of one.ive since raced two of my cars with this system and it works awesome very happy with the results.ive crashed the cars[not on purpose] and the bodys have stayed on.No more pins or clips.pop the body off and snap it in im good to go!!happy hardbody racing
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Post by bob krigbaum on Apr 30, 2015 0:17:43 GMT -8
Photo's please.
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timneja
Full Member
Love racing these hard body cars!! The new knee is working better--so I'll be back soon!!
Posts: 191
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Post by timneja on Apr 30, 2015 9:45:48 GMT -8
Sounds like a real PIA to build!! I'll just stick with the tried and true "pin" method!! Sometimes it's best to just "KISS" it!!
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